Western dress codes

Western dress codes are a set of dress codes detailing what clothes are worn for what occasion that originated in Western Europe and the United States in the 19th century. Conversely, since most cultures have intuitively applied some level equivalent to the more formal Western dress code traditions, these dress codes are simply a versatile framework, open to amalgamation of international and local customs. This versatility has made this scale of formality a practical international formality scale.

History

Historical definitions

The background of traditional contemporary Western dress codes as fixed in 20th century relied on several steps of replacement of preexisting formal wear, while in turn increasing the formality levels of the previously less formal alternatives. Thus was the case with the ceasing of the justacorps, extensively worn from the 1660s until the 1790s, followed by the same fate of the 18th century frock (not to be confused with frock coat), in turn followed by the frock coat.

Full dress, half dress, and undress

Morning dress, white tie, black tie and dark suit have roots in 19th century customs subsequent to the replacement of the 18th century generic justaucorps, and has remained fixed defined since the 20th century. The 19th century frock coat rarely occurs except as formal alternative. For women, interpretations have fluctuated more dynamically according to fashion.

In the 19th century, during the Victorian and Edwardian periods, the principal classifications of clothing were full dress and undress, and, less commonly the intermediate half dress. Full dress covered the most formal option: frock coat for day wear, and dress coat (white tie) for evening wear (sometimes with supplementary alternative being a full dress uniform independent of what time of the day). As such, full dress may still appear in use designating formal wear.

When morning dress became common (in the modern sense, using a morning tailcoat rather than a frock coat), it was considered less formal than a frock coat, and even when the frock coat was increasingly phased out, morning dress never achieved full dress status.[citation needed] Therefore, in the 21st century, full dress often refers to white tie.

Today's black tie (originally dinner clothes) was initially described as informal wear, while the "lounge suit," now standard business wear, was originally considered (as its name suggests) casual wear. Half dress, when used, was variously applied at different times, but was used to cover modern morning dress (the term morning dress is fairly undescriptive and has not always meant modern morning dress). Undress (not to be confused with nudity) in turn was similarly loose in meaning, corresponding to anything from a dressing gown to a lounge suit or its evening equivalent of dinner clothes (now one of the more formal dress codes seen in many Western regions).

Historical etiquette

For both men and women, hats corresponding to the various levels of formality exist. As supplements to the standard dress codes, headgear can be worn, though certain settings have etiquette regarding this; for example, in Christian churches, traditional norms have enjoined the wearing of a headcovering (such as a veil or cap) by women, while men are prohibited from wearing a hat.

Ceremonial dress, military uniform, religious clothing, academic dress, and folk costume appropriate to the formality level are encouraged, but face-covering garments (niqab, hijab) are not always accepted. France outlawed the public use of burqas in 2010 and the European court of law seconded the law because "uncovered faces encourage citizens to live together" (see also burqa by country).

White tie

Typical events: State dinners and state banquets, royal balls, certain other formal balls, livery dinnersetc.

Morning dress

Typical events: Traditional weddings, formal memorial services, certain royal daytime events where the Head of State is present etc.

Black tie

Typical events: Black-tie dinners, certain opera festivals, theatre opening nights, charity balls etc. There is some variation in style depending on whether it is summer, spring, winter or autumn. See black tie for more details.

Lounge suit, dark suit or business formal

Typical events: Diplomatic and business meetings, weddings and funerals, many social occasions, everyday wear

Casual wear

Casual wear encompasses business casual, smart casual, etc.

Categorization

Classifications are divided into Full dress formal wear (full dress), Half dress formal wear(half dress), Full dress informal wear[citation needed] (Informal/Undress), and Half dress informal wear[citation needed] (Semi-informal/Professional Casual; also known as business wear). Anything below this level is referred to as casual wear, which may be referred to as leisurewear or loungewear.

The term "casual" is sometimes used in combinations, such as "smart casual" or "business casual", in order to indicate higher expectations than none at all, although these classifications usually do not indicate a dress code being actually "casual" at all.

Civilian Wear / Local Wear

Occupational Wear / Work uniform

Further reading

• Sondag, Glen (2011). Anything Other Than Naked. London Street Press. pp.200 pages. ISBN978-1-936183-83-8.
• . Gentleman’s Gazette .com. Gentleman’s Gazette LLC, Minnesota, USA.