Hanfu are the historical clothing of the Han Chinese, here categorized by clothing style.

Informal wear

Two traditional forms of ruqun (襦裙), a type of Han Chinese clothing worn primarily by women. Cuffs and sleeves on the upper garment may be tighter or looser depending on style. A short skirt or weighted braid (with weight provided by a jade or gold pendant) is sometimes worn to improve aesthetics or comfort of the basic ruqun.

Types include tops and bottoms, long skirt, and one-piece robes that wrap around the body once or several times (shenyi).

Zhongyi (中衣), which is usually the inner garment much like a Western T-shirt and pants, can be wear along in casual.

The typical set of informal wear consists of two or three layers. The first layer is mostly zhongyi (中衣). The next layer is the main layer which is mostly closed at the front. There can be an optional third layer which is often an overcoat called a zhaoshan which is open at the front.

For footwear, white socks and black cloth shoes (with white soles) are the norm. But in the past, shoes may have a front face panel attached to the tip of the shoes.

List of Inner garments
RomanizationHanziDefinitionDescriptionPeriodImages
Zhōngyī中衣
Bàofù抱腹Han
Dùdōu肚兜, 兜肚, or 兜兜Qing
Héhuān Jīn合欢襟Chest covering that acts like a camisole. It covers the front and has strings in the back.Yuan dynasty
Liǎngdāng两当It is an underwear which is made up of a square-shaped back and front panels.A form of hufu. It was introduced in the Central Plains by the nomads of China.Wei and Jin
Mǒxiōng抹胸A rectangular piece of cloth tied with strings to cover the breasts and give them support.Song
Xièyī亵衣A camisole that is in a rounded diamond shape and often embroidered, tied around the neck and around the lower back.Pre-Han
Xīnyī心衣Han
Zhǔyāo主腰Ming
List of informal wear
RomanizationHanziDefinitionDescriptionPeriodImages
Zhíjū直裾Straight lapelled, full body garment.Pre-Qin – Han
Qūjū曲裾Diagonal body wrapped, full body garment.Pre-Qin – Han
Kùzhě裤褶Clothing with trousers for riding or military style clothing.A short coat with trousers.Pre-Qin – Ming.
Páofú袍服
Yèsāpáo曳撒 or 一撒A form of kuzhe.Ming
Zhì sūn fú or yisefu质孙服 or 一色服"robe of one colour"Introduced in Yuan; later became a uniform for the military officials Ming.Yuan – Ming
Rúqún襦裙"Jacket and skirt"An upper garment covered by a separate skirt. A common clothing for women.Pre-Qin – Modern
Ǎoqún/ Shānqún袄裙/衫裙A short coat with a long skirt underneath. A common clothing for women.Han – Modern
Zhíduō直裰Straight robe.Similar to zhiju but with vents at sides and cuffed sleeves. A common attire for men.Tang – Ming
Modern
Dàopáo道袍Taoist robe.Worn by Taoist priests and normal scholars.Song – Modern
Shuǐtiányī水田衣Ming-Qing
Bǎijiāyī百家衣Liu Song – Modern

Semi-formal wear

Generally, this form of wear is suitable for meeting guests or going to meetings and other special cultural days. This form of dress is often worn by the nobility or the upper-class as they are often expensive pieces of clothing, usually made of silks and damasks. The coat sleeves are often deeper than the shenyi to create a more voluminous appearance.

A piece of ancient Chinese clothing can be "made semi-formal" by the addition of the following appropriate items:

  • Chang (裳): a pleated skirt
  • Bixi (蔽膝): a cloth attached from the waist, covering front of legs.
  • Zhaoshan (罩衫): long open fronted coat
List of semi-formal wear
RomanizationHanziDefinitionPeriodImages
Banbi半臂A half-sleeved waistcoat.Tang – Ming
Bijia比甲An open-sided vest.Ming
Beizi orHechang褙子 or 鹤氅Large loose outer coat with loose and long sleevesSong – Ming

Formal wear

In addition to informal and semi-formal wear, there is a form of dress that is worn only at confucian rituals, important sacrifices, religious activities or by special people who are entitled to wear them (such as officials and emperors).

The most formal dress civilians can wear is the xuanduan (sometimes called yuanduan 元端), which consists of a black or dark blue top garment that runs to the knees with long sleeve (often with white piping), a bottom red chang, a red bixi (which can have a motif and/or be edged in black), an optional white belt with two white streamers hanging from the side or slightly to the front called peishou(佩綬), and a long black guan. Additionally, wearers may carry a long jade gui (圭) or wooden hu (笏) tablet (used when greeting royalty). This form of dress is mostly used in sacrificial ceremonies such as Ji Tian (祭天) and Ji Zu (祭祖), etc., but is also appropriate for state occasions. The xuanduan is basically a simplified version of full court dress of the officials and the nobility.

List of formal wear
RomanizationHanziDefinitionPeriodImages
Xuanduan/ Yuanduan玄端/ 元端Literally "dark solemn", a very formal dark robe.Pre-Qin – Song
Shenyi深衣A long full body garment.Pre-Qin – Ming
Yuanlingshan/ Panlingpao圓領衫/盤領袍Closed round-collared robe. Mostly used for official occasions.Sui – Ming
Lanshan襴衫Closed round-collared robe with black edges. Mostly used for academical dress; worn by scholars and students (生員) taking the imperial examination.Tang – Ming
Daxiushan大袖衫Large Sleeve Gown. Worn by royal women.Five dynasties – Tang
Chang'ao長襖A long overcoatMing
Zaju chuishao fu or Guiyi杂裾垂髾服 or 袿衣A formal dress worn by Elite women.Cao Wei to Northern and Southern dynasties

Court dress

Government officials in Changfu during the Wanli era, Ming dynasty

Court dress is the dress worn at very formal occasions and ceremonies that are in the presence of a monarch (such as an enthronement ceremony). The entire ensemble of clothing can consist of many complex layers and look very elaborate. Court dress is similar to the xuanduan in components but have additional adornments and elaborate headwear. They are often brightly colored with vermillion and blue. There are various versions of court dress that are worn for certain occasions. The practical use of court dress is now obsolete in the modern age since there is no reigning monarch in China anymore.

Those in academia or officialdom have distinctive gowns (known as changfu 常服 in court dress terms). This varies over the ages but they are typically round collared gowns closed at the front. The most distinct feature is the headgear which has 'wings' attached. Only those who passed the civil examinations are entitled to wear them, but a variation of it can be worn by ordinary scholars and laymen and even for a groom at a wedding (but with no hat).

Court dress of emperors

Court dress of Emperors
RomanizationHanziDefinitionPeriodImages
Longpao (龙袍)Jifu吉服The dragon robe for special occasions.Shang – Ming
Changfu常服The dragon robe for daily wear.Tang – Qing
Mianfu冕服Attire worn by emperors and crown princes.Shang – Ming
Tongtianguanfu通天冠服Tongtian, literally means "direct links with heaven". Ceremonial dress.Shang – Ming
Bianfu弁服Occasional court dress. Also worn by officials or the nobility.Shang – Ming

Court dress of officials

Court dress of Officials: Guanfu (官服)
RomanizationHanziDefinitionPeriodImages
Chaofu朝服A red ceremonial court dress of emperor, officials or nobility.Zhou – Ming
Gongfu公服Formal court dress according to ranks.Tang – Ming
Changfu常服Everyday court dress.Song – Qing
Bufu补服Changfu sewn with Mandarin square.Ming – Qing
Zhongjingfu忠静服Retired official's bufu with same colour long cloth belt.Ming
Cifu賜服Ceremonial court dress of the highest rank officials. The right to wear such dress was bestowed by emperors as a special honour.Ming – Qing
Mangfu蟒服Also known as the "four-clawed dragon" robe or "python robe". It is a type of Cifu.Ming-Qing
Feiyufu飞鱼服Also known as "flying fish" robe. It is a type of Cifu.Ming
Douniufu斗牛服Also known as "fighting bull" robe. It is a type of Cifu.Ming
Official Dress Codes of Officials in Ming Dynasty
PrecedenceRankRobe ColorAnimal on Patch (Civil)Animal on Patch (Military)Exemplified Positions (Not All-Inclusive)
1st (Highest)First Rank Primary 正一品Red-crowned craneLionEmperor's Chief Advisor 太師 Regional Commander 都督
2ndFirst Rank Secondary 從一品Emperor's Assistant 少傅 Regional Executive Officer 都督同知
3rdSecond Rank Primary 正二品Golden pheasantLionCrown Prince's Teaching Assistant太子少師 Secretary of Defense 兵部尚書
4thSecond Rank Secondary 從二品Governor 布政使 Provincial Deputy Commander 都指揮同知
5thThird Rank Primary 正三品PeacockTigerMayor of Beijing 順天府尹 Deputy Secretary of Labor 工部侍郎
6thThird Rank Secondary 從三品Minister of the Imperial Stud 太僕寺卿 Minister of Salt Supply 都轉鹽運使
7thFourth Rank Primary 正四品Wild gooseLeopard(Eunuch Position) Handler of the Imperial Seal 掌印太監 Minister of Foreign Affairs 鴻臚寺卿
8thFourth Rank Secondary 從四品Principal of the Imperial Academy 國子監祭酒 Governor's Junior Assistant 參議
9thFifth Rank Primary 正五品Silver pheasantBearPrincipal of the Imperial Medical Academy 太醫院使 Grand Secretary of the Cabinet 内閣大學士
10thFifth Rank Secondary 從五品Junior Scholar at the Imperial Library 翰林院侍讀學士 Deputy Manager of the Department of Justice 刑部員外郎
11thSixth Rank Primary 正六品EgretPanther(Female Position) Manager of Royal House Records 司記 Minister of Buddhist Affairs 僧錄司善世
12thSixth Rank Secondary 從六品Deputy Mayor 同知 Deputy Manager of Minority Affairs 安撫司副使
13thSeventh Rank Primary 正七品Mandarin duckPantherAuditor of the Supreme Court 大理寺評事 Investigating censor 監察御史
14thSeventh Rank Secondary 從七品Monitor of the Six Ministries 給事中 Deputy Ambassador 行人司左司副
15thEighth Rank Primary 正八品OrioleRhinocerosAccountant at the Department of Finance 戶部照磨 Deputy County Administrator 縣丞
16thEighth Rank Secondary 從八品Assistant Priest at the Ministry of Imperial Sacrifices 太常寺祀丞 Supervisor at the Ministry of Royal Food Service 光祿寺監事
17thNinth Rank Primary 正九品QuailA horse in the sea (not seahorse)Chief Servant at the Ministry of Royal Theatres 教坊司奉鑾 Chief Officer at the Headquarter of Official Travels 會同館大使
18th (Lowest)Ninth Rank Secondary 從九品Warden 司獄 Marshal 巡檢

Court dress for women

Court dress of Woman
RomanizationHanziDefinitionPeriodImages
Huidi-yi褘翟衣Attire worn by empresses and crown princesses.Zhou – Ming
Dashanxiapei大衫霞帔The large gown with the radiance hanging scarf. Ceremonial court dress of empresses and mìngfu.Song- Ming
Changfu常服Everyday court dress of mìngfu.Ming
Bufu补服Changfu sewn with Mandarin square. Ceremonial court dress of mìngfu.Ming

Cloaks

  • Doupeng (斗篷), a cloak

Lower garments

Types of Women's skirts
RomanizationHanziDefinitionDescriptionPeriodImages
Chang/ ShangA narrow, ankle-length skirt.Shang – Ming
Bixi蔽膝"Knee cover"Apron-like lower garmentShang - Ming
Shou"Seal cord"Zhou - Ming
Liuxianqun留仙裙"Fairy skirt".Han
Jianqun or Jiansequn间裙 or 间色裙Stripped skirts.It was a high waisted skirts which integrated both the techniques of the Han dynasty and foreign techniques from the Western Region. In the Sixteen kingdoms, the skirt had panels of different colours; which could vary to: 6, 8, 12 regions. From the Northern dynasty to the Tang dynasty, the skirt had denser multiple stripes. In Tang, the stripped skirt was A-line.Wei, Jin, Northern and Southern dynasties – Tang dynasty
Bainiaoqun百鸟裙"Hundred bird-feather skirt".A feather skirt worn by a princess in Mid-Tang; the skirt was made with the feathers from a hundred birds.Tang
Shiliuqun石榴裙"Pomegranate skirt"A red skirt which was very popular.Tang
Yujinqun郁金裙"Turmeric skirt"A yellow skirt which was dyed with turmeric.Tang
Liangpianqun两片裙An unpleated skirt which is composed of two pieces of fabric sewn to the same waistband. The middle part of the skirt overlap and are not sewn together.Song
Baidiequn百迭裙A one-piece pleated skirt; the top is narrow and the bottom is wide.Song
Sanjianqun三裥裙A skirt made of 4 skirts pieces sewn together.Song
Zhejianqun褶裥裙"Folded skirt"Song
Mamianqun马面裙"Horse-face skirt".A skirt made of two-pieces of fabric sewn to the same waistband. The sides of the skirt has knife pleats whereas the back and front have flat panels.Ming-Qing
Baijianqun百襇裙"Hundred pleated skirt".Qing
Yuehuaqun月華裙"Moonlight skirt".Made of ten pieces of fabric which was then tucked in 10 pleats; each pleats had a different colour which was light. It was a popular skirt in the early Qing dynasty.Qing
Yulinqun鱼鳞裙Lit. "fish-scale" skirt.A skirt where pleats were joined with silk threads in order to makes creases which look like the scales of a fish. The pleats were very tiny.Qing
"Rainbow skirt".Qing
Langanqun襕干裙"Chinese ink painting skirt".A skirt where scattered flowers pattern were printed.Qing
Fengweiqun凤尾裙Lit. "Phoenix-tail skirt".An underskirt which is decorated with long ribbons of different colours of silk, the ribbons were narrow. Different embroidery is found on in each ribbon strips. It was popular during the reign of Kangxi and Qianlong.Qing
Baizhequn百摺裙An all-around small pleated skirt.Qing – Republic

Religious clothing

Those in the religious orders wear a plain middle layer garment followed by a highly decorated cloak or coat. Taoists have a 'scarlet gown' (絳袍) which is made of a large square-shaped cloak sewn at the hem to create very long deep sleeves used in very formal rituals. They are often scarlet or crimson in colour with wide edging and embroidered with intricate symbols and motifs such as the eight trigrams and the yin and yang Taiji symbol.

Buddhist have a cloak with gold lines on a scarlet background creating a brickwork pattern which is wrapped around over the left shoulder and secured at the right side of the body with cords. There may be further decorations, especially for high priests.

Daoists, Buddhists and Confucians may have white stripe chevrons.

Types of Religious Clothing
NameHanziDefinitionDescriptionPeriodImages
Fusha orHaiqing彿裟 or海青"sea-blue".Buddhist priests' full dress ceremonial robes. It is also worn by Zhenyi priests in Taiwan; it is blue in colour.
Fayi (法衣); "ritual clothing"Jiangyi or Jiangpao絳衣 or 絳袍"Robe of descent", or "scarlet robe".A square-shaped poncho-like upper outer garment; the square symbolizes the earth which is perceived as square in Chinese cosmology. It has motifs such as the sun, moon, Three heavens, stars and constellations, Sacred (golden) tower and flying cranes, Wu yue, Mountain peaks and cosmic waters. It is worn by high ranking taoist priests, e.g. Grandmasters. It is a formal outfit worn during Taoist ceremonies.Ming- Present
Huayi花衣"Flowery robe"It is a ritual robe, worn under the jiangyi. It is well decorated with motif, such as dragons, clouds, mountains, cranes and the seven stars Dipper. It is worn by seniors and high ranking taoist priests.Unknown- Present
Banyi班衣"Colourful robe"It is a ritual robe; it can have embroidered borders but the clothing is typically monochrome, mostly red in colour. It is worn for during daily recitations of scriptures in a worship hall before divinities.Unknown – Present
Daopao道袍"Taoist robe" or"Robe of the Dao"It is worn by middle-rank Taoist priests. Colour is dependant on the rank of the priest, and is covered with decorations, such as bagua and cranes.Unknown – Present
Daoyi道衣A wide-sleeved, cross-collared gown worn by Taoist priests and nuns; it is a standard type of clothing.Unknown- Present
De luo得罗An indigo formal ritual clothing, worn by Taoism priests in the Quanzhen order; the blue colour is a symbolism for the East. It is cross-collared.Unknown – Present
Da gua大褂"Great gown"It is a common type of informal, daily clothing worn by Taoists; in present days, it is mostly narrow-sleeved and blue in colour.Unknown – Present
Jieyi戒衣"Precept robes" or "ordination robes"It is a large sleeved, monochrome yellow-coloured, cross-collar robe with black trims.Unknown- Present

Handwear

Gloves and mitts

  • Han mitts, Mawangdui Tomb, Han dynasty.

See also