Kheri (Peshawari chappal)
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The Kheri (or Khedi) (Punjabi: کھیڈی/کھیڑی, Urdu: کھیڑی) (nicknamed as Peshawari chappal) is a traditional Punjabi footwear originating from the Salt Range and surrounding regions of Punjab, Pakistan, The shoes are worn by men casually or formally, usually with the shalwar kameez. Often regarded as the national footwear of Pakistan. Because of their comfort, they are worn in place of sandals or slippers in Pakistan.
Description
It is a semi-closed shoe which consists of two wide straps crossed and joined with the sole, plus a heel strap with a buckle to tie according to the foot size and level of comfort. It is traditionally made with pure leather with its sole often made from a truck tyre. It is available in many traditional designs and colours with various variations such as gold and silver embroidery, which give the shoe a more elegant look. Kheris (Peshawari chappals) have become increasingly popular in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa region of Pakistan.
They are made from soft leather which is sewn onto the rubber tire sole. The materials are cheap, easily available and very hard-wearing. Intricate designs are added to the leather upper before the shoe is put into a mold which stretches it to size.
History
The origins of the Kheri are rooted in the artisan traditions of the north Punjab and the broader Indus plains. Designed as a utilitarian sandal for the agricultural communities of the Punjab, the footwear was specifically engineered to withstand the rocky terrain of extreme heat of northern Pakistan. Historical records confirm that the Kheri was the indigenous footwear of Northern Punjab, originating from the Salt Range and Pothohar Plateau. British colonial gazetteers document its widespread use across the districts of Attock , Jhelum (including Chakwal), Shahpur (covering Sargodha and Khushab), and Rawalpindi.
Unlike the soft leather Jutti worn in the plains of Punjab, the Kheri was developed in these hill tracts to withstand rugged topography. The connection is so specific that a limestone ridge in Rawalpindi, the Khairimár, was named "The Sandal Breaker" due to its ability to destroy the Kheri soles of travelers. This geographic belt remains a major production hub, with cities like Chakwal and Talagang continuing to export traditional hand-stitched Kheris internationally.
During the early 20th centuries, the design moved along trade routes into the urban centers of the northwest. Following the independence of Pakistan in 1947, In Peshawar, the craft was further refined with softer leathers and more intricate finishes, leading to the emergence of the nickname "Peshawari chappal" and prominent commercial brand among pushtun traders, the sandal transitioned from a regional rural staple to a national symbol of formal attire of Pakistan. While the "Peshawari" label became the dominant urban and international descriptor, the traditional nomenclature of Kheri has been preserved in the Punjab region, maintaining its status as a distinct cultural heritage of the Punjabi-speaking populations.
Linguistic evidence indicates that the Pashtun adoption of similar sandals was influenced by Punjabi designs: Raverty’s 1860 Pashto dictionary records the terms "Chaplí" and "Kheṛ" as being borrowed from Punjabi, confirming that the style and terminology originated in the Punjab region before spreading westward into Pashtun areas. Visual records further corroborate the historical use of Kheri in northern Punjab, with photographs of Punjabi soldiers from the early 20th century showing hand-stitched Kheris as part of their standard attire.
Global recognition
The Peshawari chappal has attracted international attention after several global fashion brands released footwear inspired by the traditional design.
In 2014, British designer Paul Smith released a sandal similar to the Peshawari chappal priced at approximately £300, prompting criticism in Pakistan and leading the brand to acknowledge that the design was inspired by the traditional footwear.
In 2019, French fashion designer Christian Louboutin introduced a sandal called the "Imran Sandal", inspired by the Peshawari chappal and featuring the brand's signature red sole. The design sparked debate online, with some critics accusing the brand of cultural appropriation while others saw it as bringing global recognition to the traditional sandal.
A modern variation known as the Kaptaan Chappal gained popularity in 2015 after a pair was presented to Pakistani politician Imran Khan.
Cultural significance
The Peshawari chappal is widely regarded as a symbol of traditional Pashtun dress and is commonly worn during weddings, cultural events and religious festivals across Pakistan.