Wolfgang Güllich set new "hardest-ever routes" multiple times

In rock-climbing, a first free ascent (FFA) is the first redpoint, onsight or flash of a single-pitch, multi-pitch or bouldering climbing-route that did not involve using aid equipment to help progression or resting — the ascent must thus be performed in either a sport, a traditional, or a free solo manner. First-free-ascents that set new grade milestones are important events in rock climbing history, and are listed below. While sport climbing has dominated grade milestones since the mid-1980s (i.e. are now the highest grades), milestones for modern traditional-climbing, free-solo-climbing, onsighted & flashed-ascents, are also listed.

A climbing route's grade is provisional until enough climbers have repeated it to establish a "consensus". At the highest grades, this can take years as few climbers are capable of repeating these routes. For example, in 2001, Realization was considered the world's first 9a+ (5.15a), however, the first repeat of the 1996 route Open Air[de], which only happened in 2008, suggested that it was possibly the first 9a+ (5.15a). Open Air has had no further repeats, and has had holds broken since 1996, whereas Realization has had many ascents and is thus a "consensus" 9a+. Thus, the 2nd to 4th ranked candidates are also recorded.

As of March 2026, the technically hardest-ever redpoint of a single-pitch rock-climbing route is at the grade of 9c (5.15d) for men and the grade of 9b+ (5.15c) for women. The technically hardest onsight is at the grade of 9a (5.14d) for men and 8c+ (5.14c) for women. The technically hardest boulder solved is at the boulder grade of V18 (9A+) for men and V16 (8C+) for women. The technically hardest redpoint of a multi-pitch (or big wall) route is at the grade of 9a+ (5.15a). The technically hardest free solo of a single-pitch route is at the grade of 8c (5.14b), and the technically hardest free solo of a multi-pitch (or big wall) route is at 7c+ (5.13a).

Single-pitch routes

Redpointed by men

9c (5.15d):

Adam Ondra on Silence

SilenceFlatanger Municipality (NOR) – September 3, 2017 – First ascent by Adam Ondra, who described it as "much harder than anything else" he had previously done, and cautiously suggested the 9c rating for the 45 m route. Is unrepeated (January 2026).

DNAVerdon Gorge (FRA) – April 29, 2022 – First ascent by Sébastien Bouin who proposed the grade of 9c, saying "Comparing this route to Bibliographie, Move, Beyond [Integral], it seems a step ahead", and "To choose 9c is to take a risk". Is unrepeated (January 2026).

B.I.G[de] (also Project Big) – Flatanger Municipality (NOR) – September 20, 2023 – First ascent by Jakob Schubert who worked it with Adam Ondra and after consulting with him, proposed 9c saying it was "definitely harder" than Perfecto Mundo a "benchmark" 9b+ route. Is unrepeated (January 2026).

Duality of Man – Dry Canyon, Arizona (USA) – March 6, 2025 – First ascent by Sean Bailey who worked on the project for several years, and is the first-ever proposed 9c in North America. It is unrepeated (January 2026).

9b+ (5.15c):

Change[fr]Flatanger Municipality (NOR) – October 4, 2012 – First-ever 9b+ in history, by Adam Ondra; grade confirmed by Stefano Ghisolfi (2020). Third ascent was by Seb Bouin (2022), who felt a kneebar made it closer to 9b/9b+ (5.15b/c); fourth was by Alex Megos (2024).

La Dura DuraOliana (ESP) – February 7, 2013 – Second-ever 9b+, by Adam Ondra; first-ever 9b+ repeat by Chris Sharma (March 23, 2013).

Vasil VasilMoravský Kras (CZE) – December 4, 2013 – Third-ever 9b+, by Adam Ondra. Remains unrepeated (January 2025).

Perfecto MundoMargalef (ESP) – May 9, 2018 – Fourth 9b+, by Alexander Megos; repeat by Stefano Ghisolfi (2018), and Jakob Schubert (2019); considered a "benchmark" 9b+ route.

9b (5.15b):

Jumbo LoveClark Mountain (US) – September 11, 2008 – First-ever 9b (5.15b) in history, by Chris Sharma. Repeated by Ethan Pringle (2015), Jonathan Siegrist (2018), and Seb Bouin (2022). Golpe de Estado[fr]Siurana (ESP) – December 17, 2008 – Second-ever 9b (5.15b), by Chris Sharma. First-ever 9b repeat by Adam Ondra (2010) (was Ondra's first 9b). NeanderthalSanta Linya (ESP) – December 18, 2009 – Third-ever 9b (5.15b), by Chris Sharma. Repeated by Jakob Schubert (2018), and Adam Ondra (2019).

9a+ (5.15a):

Open Air[de]Schleier Waterfall (AUT) – 1996 – First ascent by Alexander Huber, who proposed 9a (5.14d); it has only been repeated once in 2008 by Adam Ondra who felt it was 9a+ (5.15a), but the breaking of holds means it is uncertain whether Ondra did the same route. MutationRaven Tor, Peak District (ENG) – 1998 – First ascent by Steve McClure, who graded it 9a (5.14d). Will Bosi completed the first repeat in October 2021 and suggested the route is 9a+ (5.15a), or even harder. RealizationCéüse (FRA) – July 2001 – First ascent by Chris Sharma. First consensus 9a+ (5.15a) in history. La RamblaSiurana (ESP) – March 2003 – First ascent by Ramón Julián Puigblanqué. Second consensus 9a+ (5.15a) in history.

9a (5.14d):

Alex Megos on Action Directe

Action DirecteFrankenjura (DEU) – 1991 – First-ever consensus 9a in history, by Wolfgang Güllich, who originally graded it 8c+ (it held back other potential 9as), but it is now the "benchmark" for 9a. Om – Endstal, Berchtesgaden (DEU) – 1992 – Second-ever consensus 9a, by Alexander Huber. Bain de Sang[fr] – Saint Loup (SUI) – 1993 – Third-ever consensus 9a, by Fred Nicole. Hugh – Les Eaux-Claires (FRA) – 1993 – Fourth-ever consensus 9a, by Fred Rouhling.

8c+ (5.14c):

Liquid Ambar – Pen Trwyn, (WAL) – May 1990 – First ascent by Jerry Moffatt who graded 8c (5.14b), but subsequent repeats have regraded it to 8c+. Hubble – Raven Tor, Peak District (ENG) – June 1990 – Considered first-ever consensus 8c+ (5.14c) in history, by Ben Moon; later considered a possible first 8c+/9a, or even the first-ever 9a. Just Do ItSmith Rock (US) – 1992 – Considered second-ever consensus 8c+ (5.14c) (after Hubble), by Jean-Baptiste Tribout. Super PlafondVolx, (FRA) – 1994 – Considered third-ever consensus 8c+ (5.14c), by Jean-Baptiste Tribout.

8c (5.14b):

Wallstreet[de]Frankenjura (DEU) – 1987 – First-ever consensus 8c (5.14b) in history, by Wolfgang Güllich. Anaïs et le canabis – Saint Loup (SUI) – 1988 – Second-ever consensus 8c (5.14b), by Fred Nicole. AgincourtBuoux (FRA) – 1989 – Third-ever consensus 8c (5.14b), by Ben Moon. Maginot Line (Plafond)Volx (FRA) – 1989 – Fourth-ever consensus 8c (5.14b), by Ben Moon.

8b+ (5.14a):

Climber nearing the top of Punks in the Gym 32 8b+ (5.14a)

Punks in the GymMount Arapiles (AUS) – 1985 – First-ever consensus 8b+ (5.14a) in history, by Wolfgang Güllich. La Rage de VivreBuoux (FRA) – 1986 – Second-ever consensus 8b+ (5.14a), by Antoine Le Menestrel[fr]. To Bolt or Not to BeSmith Rock (US) – 1986 – Third-ever consensus 8b+ (5.14a), by Jean-Baptiste Tribout. Le MinimumBuoux (FRA) – 1986 – Fourth-ever consensus 8b+ (5.14a), by Marc Le Menestrel[fr].

8b (5.13d):

Kanal im RückenFrankenjura (DEU) – 1984 – First-ever consensus 8b (5.13d) in history, by Wolfgang Güllich. Les Mains SalesBuoux (FRA) – 1985 – Second-ever consensus 8b (5.13d), by Marc Le Menestrel[fr]. Le fluide enchantéMouriès (FRA) – 1985 – Third-ever consensus 8b (5.13d), by Marc Le Menestrel[fr]. La Rose et le VampireBuoux (FRA) – 1985 – Fourth-ever consensus 8b (5.13d), by Antoine Le Menestrel[fr].

8a+ (5.13c)

The Face[de]Altmühltal (DEU) – 1983 – First-ever consensus 8a+ (5.13c) in history, by Jerry Moffatt. Le Bidule – Le Saussois (FRA) – 1984 – Second-ever consensus 8a+ (5.13c), by Marc Le Menestrel[fr].

Pre-sport era

The notable first ascents that set a new highest-grade prior to The Face were traditional climbing routes:

8a (5.13b)

Grand Illusion – Sugar Loaf, Lake Tahoe, CA (US) – 1979 – First-ever consensus 8a (5.13b) in history, by Tony Yaniro. Cosmic Debris – Yosemite Valley, CA (US) – May, 1980 – Early 8a led by Bill Price. Sphinx Crack – South Platte, CO (US) – April, 1981 – Early 8a led by Steve Hong. 13 Boulevard du Vol – Rochers de Freyr, (BEL) – 1981 – Early consensus 8a (5.13b), by Arnould t'Kint.

7c+ (5.13a)

The PhoenixYosemite, CA (US) – 1977 – Considered the first-ever consensus 7c+ (5.13a) in history, by Ray Jardine (used his new cams). Le Toit – Baou de Quatre Ouro (FRA) – 1981 – Second-ever consensus 7c+ (5.13a) in history, by Patrick Edlinger. Le HaineLa Turbie (FRA) – March, 1981 – Third-ever consensus 7c+ (5.13a) in history, by Patrick Berhault. Chimpanzodrome – Le Saussois (FRA) – April, 1981 – Fourth-ever consensus 7c+ (5.13a) in history, by Jean-Pierre Bouvier.

7c (5.12d)

Psycho RoofEldorado, CO (US) – 1975 – Estimated as the first-ever 7c (5.12d) in history, by Steve Wunsch; only one ascent, due to large broken flake, and was possibly harder than 7c in 1975. The Pirate – Suicide Rock, CA – (US) – 1978 – Early 7c (5.12d) by Tony Yaniro. Iron CrossShawangunks, NY – (US) – 1978 – Early 7c (5.12d) by John Bragg. Genesis – Eldorado, CO – (US) – 1979 May – Early 7c (5.12d) by Jim Collins. NymphodalleLes Calanques (FRA) – 1979 – Sometimes considered first-ever consensus 7c (5.12d) in history, by Patrick Edlinger.

7b+ (5.12c)

Paisano OverhangSuicide Rock, (US) – 1974 – First-ever consensus 7b+ (5.12c) climbs, by John Long. Super CrackShawangunks, (US) – 1974 Oct – Long considered the first-ever consensus 7b+ (5.12c) by Steve Wunsch. Super CrackShawangunks, (US) – 1977 – First-ever repeat of a consensus 7b+ (5.12c), by Ron Kauk.

7b (5.12b)

English Hanging GardensBig Rock, Lake Perris, California, (US) – 1970 – Regraded as possible first 7b (5.12b) in history, by John Gosling. Kansas CityShawangunks, NY (US) – 1973 – One of the first-ever 5.12b/c climbs in history, by John Bragg. Constable's Overhang – Wilton, (ENG) – 1973 – Possible early 7b (5.12b), as is graded "hard" E5 6b, by Hank Pasquill. Fish CrackYosemite (US) – 1975 May – One of the first-ever 7b (5.12b) climbs in history, by Henry Barber.

7a+ (5.12a)

Thimble, the 1960s

ThimbleNeedles, SD, (US) – 1961 – First-ever 7a+ (5.12a) in history, by John Gill. Free soloed. Macabre Roof – Ogden, Utah, (US) – 1967 – First-ever roped 7a+ (5.12a) in history, flashed by Greg Lowe. Orchrist – Almscliff, (ENG) – July 1973 – Early 7a+ (5.12a) as was graded E5 6b, by Hank Pasquill. The ThroneShawangunks, NY (US) – 1973 – Very early 7a+ (5.12a) climb, led by John Stannard.

7a (5.11d)

FoopsShawangunks, NY (US) – 1967 October – Often considered a first-ever consensus 7a (5.11d), by John Stannard. Messner Slab – Pilastro di Mezzo, Sas dla Crusc/Heiligkreuzkofel, (ITA) – 1968 July – Contemporary re-grading implies it may be a very early 7a (5.11d), led on sight by Reinhold Messner. Schwager NordwandSchrammsteine, Saxon Switzerland, (DEU) – 1970 – Considered a notable early 7a (5.11d) IXb, by Bernd Arnold.

6c+ (5.11b/c)

KönigshängelFriensteineSaxon Switzerland, (DEU) – August 12, 1965 – First-ever 6c+ (5.11b/c) Saxon IXa by Fritz Eske. Redpoint grade today at Saxon IXb.

6c (5.11a/b):

Demon RibBlack Rocks (ENG) – May 13, 1949 – Sometimes considered the first-ever lead at 6c (E3 5c) by Peter Harding. Schwager TalwegSchrammsteine Saxon Switzerland (DEU) – August 31, 1952 – Even with shoulder stands at all three cruxes, 6c (Saxon VIIIc) free climbing was led by Harry Rost. GoliathBurbage South Edge, (ENG) – 1958 – Very early 6c (5.11a/b) then, harder today (E4 6a); led onsight by Don Whillans.

6b+ (5.10d/11a):

Suicide Wall, Route 1 – Idwal Slabs Ogwyn Valley (WAL) –1945 – One of the first-ever 6b+ (E2 5c, 5.10d) leads by Chris Preston. Rebitsch-Spiegl (Pitch Two) – Fleischbank Wilder Kaiser (AUT) – June 20, 1946 – Early 6b+ (UIAA VII) lead by Mathias Rebitsch.

6b (5.10c):

Rostkante – Hauptwiesenstein Bielatel Saxon Switzerland, (DEU) –1922 – First consensus 6b lead (Saxon VIIIb, UIAA VII) by Hans Rost.

6a+ (5.10b):

Westkante – Wilderkopf Affensteine Saxon Switzerland (DEU) – 1918 – Usually considered the first-ever 6a+ climb (Saxon VIIIa) by Emanuel Strubich.

5b (5.8):

Perrykante – Spannagelturm, Bielatel, Saxon Switzerland (DEU) – June 1, 1906 – Often considered the first-ever 5b, even with two shoulder stands (Saxon VIIb then, harder if redpointed), by Oliver Perry Smith. Alter Weg – Teufelsturm Schmilka Saxon Switzerland (DEU) – Sept 1, 1906 – Likely the second-ever 5b, utilizing one shoulder stand at Saxon VIIb, harder if done all free, by Oliver Perry Smith.

Redpointed by women

9b+ (5.15c)

Excalibur[de]Arco, Trentino (ITA) – April 5, 2025 – First-ever female ascent of a 9b+ route, by Brooke Raboutou.

9b (5.15b):

La Planta de ShivaVillanueva del Rosario (ESP) – October 22, 2017 – First-ever female ascent of a 9b route, by Angela Eiter. Repeated by Anak Verhoeven in 2024, making her only the fourth-ever female to redpoint a 9b route. Eagle–4Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux (FRA) – November 7, 2020 – Second-ever female ascent of a 9b, by Julia Chanourdie. Madame ChingTyrol (AUT) – December 16, 2020 – Third female 9b and first-ever female FFA of a 9b, by Angela Eiter. Remains unrepeated (January 2025). Erebor – Eremo di San Paolo, Arco (ITA) – October 2, 2021 – Fourth-ever female ascent of a 9b (downgraded from 9b+), by Laura Rogora.

9a+ (5.15a):

La RamblaSiurana (ESP) – February 26, 2017 – First-ever female ascent of a 9a+ route, by Margo Hayes. Sweet neuf – Pierrot Beach (FRA) – September 11, 2017 – Second-ever female ascent, and first-ever female FFA of a 9a+, by Anak Verhoeven. Confirmed by Cédric Lachat[fr] (2019). RealizationCéüse (FRA) – September 24, 2017 – Third-ever female ascent of a 9a+ route, by Margo Hayes. PapichuloOliana (ESP) – March 22, 2019 – Fourth-ever female ascent of a 9a+ route, by Margo Hayes.

9a/9a+ :

Bimbaluna – Saint Loup (SUI) – 1 May 2005 – World's first-ever female ascent of a 9a/9a+ route, by Josune Bereziartu. Open your Mind direct – Santa Linya (ESP) 17 March 2015 – Second female ascent of a 9a/9a+ route, by Ashima Shiraishi.

9a (5.14d):

Bain de Sang[fr] – Saint Loup (SUI) – October 29, 2002 – First-ever female ascent of a 9a route, by Josune Bereziartu. Logical Progression – Jo Yama (JPN) – November, 2004 – Second-ever female ascent of a 9a route, by Josune Bereziartu. Les 3 P – La grotte du Galetas, Verdon Gorge (FRA) – August, 2011 – Third-ever female ascent of a 9a route, by Charlotte Durif[fr]; initially disputed, later verified. PuntXGorges du Loup, (FRA) – November, 2013 – Fourth-ever female ascent of a 9a route, by Muriel Sarkany.

8c+ (5.14c):

Honky Tonk Mix – Onate (ESP) – June, 2000 – First-ever female ascent of an 8c+ route, by Josune Bereziartu. Noia – Andonno (ITA) – October, 2001 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8c+ route, by Josune Bereziartu. Na Nai – Baltzola (ESP) – June 18, 2003 – Third-ever female ascent of an 8c+ route, by Josune Bereziartu. Powerade – Vadiello (ESP) – May 21, 2007 – Fourth-ever female ascent of an 8c+ route, by Josune Bereziartu.

8c (5.14b):

Honky Tonky – Onate (ESP) – May, 1998 – First-ever female ascent of an 8c route, by Josune Bereziartu. White Zombie – Baltzola (ESP) – May, 1999 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8c route, by Josune Bereziartu. Raz – Baltzola (ESP) – May, 1999 – Third-ever female ascent of an 8c route, by Josune Bereziartu. Welcome to Tijuana – Rodellar (ESP) – May, 2000 – Fourth-ever female ascent of an 8c route, by Josune Bereziartu.

8b+ (5.14a):

Masse CritiqueCimai (FRA) – 1990 – First-ever female ascent of an 8b+ route, by Lynn Hill. No Sika, No Crime – Lehn (CHF) – 1993 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8b route, by Suzi Good. Silence VerticalTroubat (FRA) – 1993 – Third-ever female ascent of an 8b route, by Robyn Erbesfield. Attention on vous regardeSaint-Antonin-Noble-Val (FRA) – 1993 – Fourth-ever female ascent of an 8b route, by Robyn Erbesfield.

8b (5.13d):

SortilègesLe Cimai (FRA) – 1988 – First-ever female ascent of an 8b route, by Isabelle Patissier. SortilègesLe Cimai (FRA) – 1989 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8b route, by Lynn Hill. SortilègesLe Cimai (FRA) – 1989 – Third-ever female ascent of an 8b route, by Corinne Labrune[fr].

8a+ (5.13c):

ChoucasBuoux (FRA) – March 1988 – First-ever female ascent of an 8a+ route, by Catherine Destivelle.

8a (5.13b):

Come Back – Val San Nicolò (ITA) – 1986 – First-ever female ascent of an 8a route, by Luisa Iovane[fr]. Rêve de PapillonBuoux (FRA) – 1987 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8a route, by Christine Gambert[fr]. Rêve de PapillonBuoux (FRA) – 1987 – Third-ever female ascent of an 8a route, by Lynn Hill. Rêve de PapillonBuoux (FRA) – 1988 – Fourth-ever female ascent of an 8a route, by Catherine Destivelle.

7c+/8a (5.13a/b) :

Fleur de RocailleMouriès, (FRA) – 1985 – First-ever female ascent of an 7c+/8a route, by Catherine Destivelle; was first 8a, but grade softened.

Pre-sport era

The notable first female ascents that set a new highest-grade pre Fleur de Rocaille were traditional climbing routes:

7c+ (5.13a):

VandalsShawangunk Mountains (US) – 1984 – First-ever female ascent of a 7c+ route, by Lynn Hill. Artificial IntelligenceShawangunk Mountains (US) – 1985 – Second-ever female ascent of a 7c+ route, by Lynn Hill. Chimpanzodrome – Le Saussois (FRA) – 1985 – Third-ever female ascent of a 7c+ route, by Christine Gambert[fr].

7c (5.12d):

Ophir BrokeTelluride (US) – 1979 – First free ascent and first-ever female lead of a 7c route (subsequently upgraded), by Lynn Hill. Organic IronShawangunk Mountains (US) – 1984 – Second-ever female ascent of a 7c route (was considered first), by Lynn Hill. KatapultFrankenjura (GER) – 1985 – Third-ever female ascent of a 7c route, by Isabelle Patissier.

7b+ (5.12c):

Super CrackShawangunk Mountains (US) – 1983 July – Early female ascent of a 7b+ route, by Barbara Devine. Yellow Crack VariationShawangunk Mountains (US) – 1984 – Early female ascent of a 7b+ route, by Lynn Hill. Pichenibule (en libre)Verdon Gorge (FRA) – 1985 – First free ascent and early female lead of a 7b+ route, by Catherine Destivelle.

7b (5.12b):

Kansas CityShawangunk Mountains (US) – 1977 – Early female ascent of a 7b route, by Barbara Devine. Tales of PowerYosemite Valley CA (US) – 1981 – Redpoint of a 7b route by Louise Shepherd

7a (5.11d):

FoopsShawangunk Mountains (US) – 1976 – Early female ascent of a 7a route, by Barbara Devine.

Onsighted / Flashed by men

With route beta on the internet, the distinction between an onsight (no prior beta) and a flash (had prior beta) is less relevant; it is recorded where noted.

9a+ (5.15a):

Super Crackinette – Saint Léger (FRA) – 10 February 2018 – First-ever 9a+ flash (not onsight) in history, by Adam Ondra.

9a (5.14d):

Southern Smoke Direct – Red River Gorge (USA) – 29 October 2012 – First-ever 9a flash (not onsight), by Adam Ondra. Estado Critico – Siurana (ESP) – 24 March 2013 – First-ever 9a onsight, by Alex Megos. Cabane au Canada – Rawyl (SUI) – 9 July 2013 – Second-ever 9a onsight, by Adam Ondra. Il Domani – Baltzola (ESP) – 3 May 2014 – Third-ever 9a onsight, by Adam Ondra.

8c+ (5.14c):

Bizi EuskarazEtxauri (ESP) – December 11, 2007 – First-ever 8c+ onsight, by Patxi Usobiaga. Kidetasunaren Balio ErantsiaEtxauri (ESP) – March 6, 2011 – Second-ever 8c+ onsight, by Adam Ondra. Bizi EuskarazEtxauri (ESP) – March 7, 2011 – Third-ever 8c+ onsight, by Adam Ondra. Powerade – Vadiello (La Caverna) (ESP) – March 9, 2011 – Fourth-ever 8c+ onsight, by Adam Ondra.

8c (5.14b):

White Zombie – Baltzola (ESP) – October 6, 2004 – First-ever 8c onsight, by Yuji Hirayama. Pata Negra – Rodellar (ESP) – August 10, 2005 – Second-ever 8c onsight, by Tomáš Mrázek. Gaua – Lezaia (ESP) – October 10, 2005 – Third-ever 8c onsight, by Patxi Usobiaga. La Teoria Dell'8a – Grotta dell'Aeronauta (ITA) – November 23, 2005 – Fourth-ever 8c onsight, by Tomáš Mrázek.

8b+ (5.14a):

Massey Fergusson – Calanques (FRA) – 1995 – First-ever 8b+ onsight, by Elie Chevieux[de]. Maldita María – Cuenca (ESP) – 1996 – Second-ever 8b+ onsight, by Elie Chevieux[de].

8b (5.13d):

Liaisons Dangereuses – Les Calanques (Les Goudes), (FRA) – 1993 – First-ever 8b onsight, by Elie Chevieux[de] Public Enemy – Cuenca, (ESP) – 1993 – Originally considered the first 8a+/8b onsight, by Stefan Glowacz, but consensus grade is now 8b.

8a+ (5.13c):

(unknown)

8a (5.13b):

Samizdat – Cimai (FRA) – 1987 – First-ever 8a on-sight, by Antoine Le Menestrel[fr].

7c+ (5.13a):

Pol PotVerdon Gorge (FRA) – 1984 – First-ever 7c+ onsight, by Jerry Moffatt. The PhoenixYosemite (FRA) – 1984 – Second-ever 7c+ onsight, by Jerry Moffatt. Yesterday DirectMount Arapiles (AUS) – 1985 – Third-ever 7c+ (Australia 28) onsight, by Wolfgang Güllich.

7c (5.12d):

Equinox – Joshua Tree (US) – 1982 – First-ever 7c flash (not onsight), by Jerry Moffatt (originally considered 7b+). La Polka des RingardsBuoux (FRA) – 1982 – First-ever 7c onsight, by Patrick Edlinger. Heisse Finger – Frankenjura (GER) – 1983 – Second-ever 7c onsight, by Jerry Moffatt. Chasin' the Trane – Frankenjura (GER) – 1983 – Third-ever 7c onsight, by Jerry Moffatt.

7b+ (5.12c):

Super Crack – Shawangunks (US) – 1982 – First-ever 7b+ flash (not onsight), by Jerry Moffatt. Captain crochetBuoux (FRA) – 1982 – First-ever 7b+ onsight, by Patrick Edlinger.

Onsighted / Flashed by women

With route beta on the internet, the distinction between an onsight (no prior beta) and a flash (had prior beta) is less relevant; it is recorded where noted.

8c+ (5.14c):

Ultimate SacrificeGorges du Loup (FR) – July 28, 2025 – First-ever female 8c+ onsight, by Laura Rogora

Puro DreamingArco, Trentino (ITA) – October 24, 2025 – Second-ever female 8c+ flash/onsight, by Janja Garnbret; the original grade was 9a (5.14d) but was softened due to use of kneepads, which Garnbret did not use on her ascent, making it a possible first flash at 9a.

8c (5.14b):

La Fabelita -– Santa Linya (ESP) – December 31, 2015 – First-ever female 8c flash, by Janja Garnbret (flash of Rollito Sharma downgraded). Fish eyeOliana (ESP) – November 1, 2021 – First-ever female 8c onsight, by Janja Garnbret American HustleOliana (ESP) – November 4, 2021 – Second-ever female 8c onsight, by Janja Garnbret L'AntagonistaMontsant (ESP) – November 25, 2022 – Third-ever female (and the second female) 8c onsight, by Chaehyun Seo.

8b+ (5.14a):

Hidrofobia – Montsant (ESP) – April, 2006 – First-ever female 8b+ onsight, by Josune Bereziartu (later considered possible 8b). Humildes pa casaOliana (ESP) – April, 2010 – Second-ever female 8b+ onsight, by Maja Vidmar. Les Rois du PétrolePic Saint-Loup (FRA) – July, 2010 – Third-ever female 8b+ onsight, by Charlotte Durif[fr] (was 8c). Omaha BeachRed River Gorge (US) – March, 2011 – Fourth-ever female 8b+ onsight, by Sasha Digiulian.

8b (5.13d):

Steroid PerformanceHorai (JPN) – December, 2004 – First-ever female 8b onsight, by Josune Bereziartu. Il Veccho et il Mare – Millennium Cave, Sardinia (ITA) – July, 2005 – Second-ever female 8b onsight, by Caroline Ciavaldini[it]. La RéserveSaint-Léger-du-Ventoux, (FRA) – October, 2005 – Third-ever female 8b onsight, by Josune Bereziartu. Fuente de Energia – La Caverna, Vadiello (ESP) – November, 2005 – Fourth-ever female 8b onsight, by Josune Bereziartu.

8a+ (5.13c):

Bon Vintage – Terradets (ESP) – April, 2000 – First-ever female 8a+ onsight, by Josune Bereziartu. NaskaApellániz (ESP) – October, 2001 – Second-ever female 8a+ onsight, by Josune Bereziartu. Déversé Satanique – Gorges du Loup (FRA) – October, 2001 – Third-ever female 8a+ onsight, by Josune Bereziartu.

8a (5.13b):

Overdose – Lourmarin (FRA) – 1993 – First-ever female 8a/+ onsight, by Robyn Erbesfield. Simon – Frankenjura (GER) – 1992 – First-ever female 8a onsight, by Lynn Hill. Rampaneu – Frankenjura (GER) – 1992 – Second-ever female 8a onsight, by Robyn Erbesfield.

Free-solo by men

8c (5.14b):

Panem et Circenses – Length: 15 metres (49 ft) – Arco (IT) – March 2021 – First-ever 8c free solo, by Alfredo Webber, aged 52.

8b+ (5.14a):

Kommunist – Length: 22 metres (72 ft) – Tyrol (AUT) – 2004 – The first-ever 8b+ free solo, by Alexander Huber. Darwin Dixit – Length: 15 metres (49 ft) – Margalef (ESP) – March 2008 – Originally 8c, but downgraded to 8b+, by Dave MacLeod.

8b (5.13d):

CompilationOmblèze (FRA) – 1993– First-ever 8b free solo, by Alain Robert. Der OpportunistSchleierfall (AUT) – 2003 – Second-ever 8b free solo, by Alexander Huber.

8a+ (5.13c):

Rêve de gosseLa Roche-des-Arnauds (FRA) – 1987 – First-ever 8a+ free solo, by Jean-Christophe Lafaille. La Nuit du Lézard – Length: 30-meters – Buoux (FRA) – 1991 – Early free solo at 8a+ by Alain Robert.

8a (5.13b):

Revelations – Length: 15 meters – Raven Tor, Peak District (ENG) – 1985 – First-ever 8a free solo, by Antoine Le Menestrel[fr]. Orange Mécanique – Length: 30 meters – Cimai (FRA) – 1989 – Early 8a free solo by Patrick Edlinger.

7c+ (5.13a):

Chimpanzodrome – Length: 15 meters – Le Saussois (FRA) –1984 – First-ever 7c+ free solo by Jean-Pierre Bouvier. Polpot – Length: 50 meters (2-pitches) – Barre de l'Escales Verdon Gorge (FRA) – 1996 – Early 7c+ free solo by Alain Robert.

7c (5.12d)

Weed Killer – Length: 8 meters – Raven Tor, Peak District (ENG) – 1986 – First-ever 7c free solo, by Wolfgang Güllich.

7b (5.12b)

Mickey's Beach Crack – Length: 18 meters – Mickey's Beach, San Francisco, CA (US) – October 1981 – First-ever 7b free solo by Dan Goodwin. Baby Apes – Length: 15 meters – Joshua Tree National Park (US) – 1982 – Second-ever 7b free solo, by John Bachar.

7a+ (5.12a)

Thimble – Length: 9 meters – Needles, SD, (US) – 1961 – First-ever 7a+ free solo by John Gill.

7a (5.11d):

Spider Line – Length: 16 meters – Joshua Tree, CA, (US) – February 1978 – First-ever free solo at 7a by John Yablonski.

6c+ (5.11b/c):

Wall of Horrors – Length: 18 meters – Almscliff, (ENG) – 1961 – First-ever free solo at E3 6a by Allan Austin. Slip N Slide – Length: 8 meters – Peak District, (ENG) – 1976 – First-ever free solo at E6 6a by Ron Fawcett.

6c (5.11a/b):

Western Front – Length: 13 meters – Almscliff (ENG) – July 9, 1958 – One of the first-ever free solos at E3 5c, unrehearsed, by Allan Austin.

Boulder problems

Solved by men

9A+ (V18):

Exodia – Rifugio de Barbara (ITA) – November 2025 – First ascent by Elias Iagnemma of a Christian Core project, who proposed the grade at 9A+ (V18), which would be the world's first-ever at this grade; remains unconfirmed.

9A (V17):

Burden of Dreams – Lappnor (FIN) – October 2016 – First ascent by Nalle Hukkataival; confirmed by Will Bosi in April 2023.

Soudain Seul – Coquibus Rumont (FRA) – February 8, 2021 – First ascent by Simon Lorenzi; disputed by Nicolas Pelorson (2021), who felt it was V16, but generally upheld at V17 on future repeats including from Adam Ondra who felt it could be a "soft [V17]".

Return of the SleepwalkerRed Rock Canyon (US) – April 2021 – First ascent by Daniel Woods; a sit start into Jimmy Webb's Sleepwalker 8C+ (V16); confirmed by Will Bosi in February 2024.

AlphaneChironico (SUI) – April 6, 2022 – First ascent by Shawn Raboutou, and first repeat by Aidan Roberts (October 2022). Grade confirmed by William Bosi (November 2022).

8C+ (V16):

Christian Core on Gioia[fr]

Gioia[fr]Varazze (ITA) – 2008 – Considered the first-ever 8C+ (V16), by Christian Core. First repeat in 2011 by Adam Ondra who proposed an 8C+ grade, describing the boulder as one of the hardest in the world, together with Terranova (see below). Third ascent by Nalle Hukkataival in 2014, and Niccolo Ceria in 2020, who were silent on grade. In 2015, new chipped holds were discovered on the route, which Core tried to fix but not with complete success, leaving one new crimp that Core felt lowers the grade. In 2021, a fifth repeat by Elias Iagnemma suggested a slightly lower grade of 8C/+ (using a kneepad).

Livin' LargeRocklands (ZAF) – August 2009 – First ascent by Nalle Hukkataival who graded it 8C (V15) which first repeat by Jimmy Webb (2015) upheld; however, a second and third repeat by Shawn Raboutou (2018) and Ryuichi Murai (2023), suggests it is more likely an 8C+ (V16) boulder.

Hypnotized MindsRocky Mountain (US) – October 2010 – Considered one of the first-ever consensus 8C+ (V16) boulders, by Daniel Woods who initially proposed V15; first repeat by Rustam Asatowitsch Gelmanow[de] (2016), and a second repeat by Dave Graham (2019), confirmed it as V16.

TerranovaHolstejn (Moravsky Kras, CZE) – November 2011 – Considered an early 8C+ (V16), by Adam Ondra. Remains unrepeated (January 2025)

8C (V15):

Monkey WeddingRocklands (ZAF) – August 2002 – First-ever consensus 8C (V15) in history, by Fred Nicole. Black Eagle SDSRocklands (ZAF) – August 2002 – Second-ever consensus 8C (V15) in history, by Fred Nicole. Viva l'Evolution – Tyrol (AUT) – September 2002 – Third-ever consensus 8C (V15) in history, by Bernd Zangerl[fr]. Walk Away SDSLake District (ENG) – October 2002 – Considered the fourth-ever 8C (V15) in history, by John Gaskins. Remains unrepeated (January 2025)

8B+ (V14):

Radja – Branson, Valais (SUI) – January 1996 – First-ever consensus 8B+ (V14), by Fred Nicole. Nanuk – Königsee (GER) – 1997 – After repeated in 2012, considered the second-ever 8B+ (V14), by Klem Loskot. Coeur de LionHueco Tanks (US) – 1998 – Third-ever consensus 8B+ (V14), by Fred Nicole.

Dreamtime in Switzerland

DreamtimeCresciano (SUI) – October 28, 2000 – First ascent by Fred Nicole who proposed it as the world's first 8C (V15), but later settled at 8B+ (V14) Dreamtime became as iconic as Midnight Lightning due to its beauty and challenge; a broken hold in 2009 regraded it closer to 8C (V15).

8B (V13):

La Danse des Balrogs – Branson, Valais (SUI) – 1992 – First-ever consensus 8B (V13), by Fred Nicole. EnigmaFontainebleau (FRA) – 1992 – Considered the second-ever 8B (V13), by Philippe le Denmatt. FatmanFontainebleau (FRA) – 1993 – Considered important early 8B (V13), by Jacky Godoffe[it]. The DominatorYosemite (US) – 1993 – Considered important early 8B (V13), by Jerry Moffatt.

8A+ (V12):

TriceBoulder, Colorado (US) – 1975 – Ungraded and unrepeated for 32 years, but is now considered the world's first 8A+ (V12), by Jim Holloway. SlapshotFlatirons (US) – 1977 – Ungraded and unrepeated for years, but considered one of the world's first 8A+ (V12), by Jim Holloway, and possibly V13 (8B). L’à Plat du GainFontainebleau (FRA) – 1988 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of an 8A+ (V12), by Alain Ghersen. SupermanCressbrook (ENG) – 1988 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of an 8A+ (V12), by Jerry Moffatt; now a possible 8B.

8A (V11):

C’était DemainFontainebleau (FRA) – 1984 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of an 8A (V11), by Jacky Godoffe[it]. Careless TorqueStanage Edge (ENG) – 1987 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of an 8A+ (V12), by Ron Fawcett; now at 8A.

7C+ (V10):

The GroovePueblo, Colorado (US) – 1978 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a 7C+ (V10), by John Gill.

7C (V9):

Red Cross Overhang, or Gill ProblemTeton Range (US) – 1959 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a 7C (V9), by John Gill. Double Clutch – Flagstaff Mountain, Boulder, CO (US) – 1972 – Very early 7c (V8-V9) by Bob Williams. Speed of Light Dyno – Black Mountains (US) – 1979 – Considered an important early ascent of a 7C (V9), by John Long. L'Abbé RésinaFontainebleau (FRA) – 1983 – Considered an important early ascent of a 7C (V9), by Pierre Richard.

Climber on Midnight Lightning

7B+ (V8):

Le CarnageFontainebleau (FRA) – 1977 – Considered the first-ever ascent of a 7B+ (V8), by Jérôme Jean-Charles. Midnight LightningCamp 4, Yosemite (US) – 1978 – Second-ever ascent of a 7B+ (V8), by Ron Kauk.

7B (V8):

Gill Right ProblemTeton Range (US) – 1958 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a V8 (7B/7B+), by John Gill.

7A (V6):

Le JokerFontainebleau (FRA) – 1953 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a V6 (7A), by Robert Paragot[fr].

6A (V3):

Marie-RoseFontainebleau (FRA) – 1946 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a V3 (6A/6A+), by Rene Ferlet[fr].

Solved by women

8C+ (V16) :

The Dark SideYosemite National Park, (US) – April 2025 – First-ever female ascent of a consensus 8C+ (V16), by Katie Lamb.

8C/8C+ (V15/16) :

Box TherapyRMNP, (US) – 28 July 2023 – First-ever female ascent of an 8C+ (V16), by Katie Lamb. Originally solved by Daniel Woods in 2018 who graded it 8C+ (V16), and upheld by repeaters, Brooke Raboutou suggested it was at 8C (V15) after repeating it in October 2023.

8C (V15):

E la nave va – Lindental, (SUI) – 2003 – First-ever female ascent of an 8C (V15) boulder traverse, by Josune Bereziartu.

Horizon – Mount Hiei, (JPN) – March 22, 2016 – First-ever female ascent of an 8C (V15), by Ashima Shiraishi. Sleepy RaveHollow Mountain Cave, (AUS) – 2 August 2016 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8C (V15), by Ashima Shiraishi. Kryptos – Morchelstock, Balsthal, (SUI) – June, 2018 – Third-ever female ascent of an 8C (V15), by Kaddi Lehmann. Byaku-dou – Mount Hurai, (JPN) – May 5, 2019 – Fourth-ever female ascent of an 8C (V15), by Mishka Ishi.

8B+ (V14):

La traversia De Balzola – Balzola, (ESP) – 2002 – First-ever female ascent of an 8B+ (V14) boulder traverse, by Josune Bereziartu.

Catharsis – Shiobara, (JPN) – 20 October 2012 – First-ever female ascent of an 8B+ (V14), by Tomoko Ogawa. Golden ShadowRocklands, (RSA) – 11 July 2014 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8B+ (V14), by Ashima Shiraishi. New Base Line – Magic Wood, (SUI) – 12 July 2014 – Third-ever female ascent of an 8B+ (V14), by Shauna Coxsey.

8B (V13):

The AutomatorRMNP, (US) – 17 August 2010 – First-ever female ascent of an 8B (V13), by Angie Payne. The Riverbed – Magic Wood, (SUI) – 16 September 2010 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8B (V13), by Anna Stöhr. Crow of AragornHueco Tanks, (US) – 20 March 2012 – Third-ever female ascent of 8B (V13), by Ashima Shiraishi, and youngest (age 10).

8A+ (V12):

Liaison FutileFontainebleau, (FRA) – 13 April 1999 – First-ever female ascent of an 8A+ (V12), by Catherine Miquel. Atomic PlayboyFontainebleau, (FRA) – 2 March 2001 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8A+ (V12), by Catherine Miquel. Solaris – Baltzoia, (SPA) – 15 April 2003 – Third-ever female to ascend a 8A+ (V12), by Josune Bereziartu.

8A (V11):

DuelFontainebleau, (FRA) – October, 1998 – First-ever female ascent of an 8A (V11), by Catherine Miquel. Berezi – Larraona, (SPA) – 2001 – Second-ever female ascent of a consensus 8A (V11), by Josune Bereziartu.

7C+/8A :

Sale gosse assisFontainebleau, (FRA) – 1998 – First-ever female ascent of an 7C+/8A , by Catherine Miquel. Plain High DrifterThe Buttermilks, (US) – March, 2001 – Second-ever female ascent of a consensus 7C+/8A , by Lisa Rands.

7C+ (V10):

HalloweenFontainebleau, (FRA) – 1997/96 – First-ever female ascent of a 7C+ (V10), by Catherine Miquel. Le Grande BleuFontainebleau, (FRA) – 1999 – Second-ever female ascent of a 7C+ (V10), by Catherine Miquel.

7C (V9):

Miss WorldFontainebleau, (FRA) – 1996 – First-ever female ascent of a 7C (V9), by Catherine Miquel. Mayonnaise de PassionFontainebleau, (FRA) – 1996 – Second-ever female ascent of a 7C (V9), by Catherine Miquel.

7B+ (V8):

Le CarnageFontainebleau, (FRA) – 1989 – First-ever female ascent of a 7B+ (V8), by Catherine Miquel. Trois graines d'éternitéFontainebleau, (FRA) – 1995 – Second-ever female ascent of a 7B+ (V8), by Dany Riche. Midnight LightningCamp 4, Yosemite, (US) – 1998 – Notable female ascent of a famous 7B+ (V8), by Lynn Hill.

Multi-pitch routes

Given the smaller number of entries for multi-pitch and big wall routes, the sections below combine milestones for overall and female ascents. In some cases (e.g. the Salathé Wall and Dawn Wall), the first free ascent was by a climbing pair alternating leads, and in such instances, the first individual to free climb all the pitches is also recorded.

Redpointed

9a+ (5.15a):

Valhalla (405-meters, 14 pitches) – Grand Arch, Getu Valley National Park (CHN) – 4 March 2019 – The world's longest continuous roof climb and the first-ever multi-pitch redpoint at 9a+ (5.15a), by Edu Marin[ca].

9a (5.14d):

The Dawn Wall (3,000-feet, 32-pitches) – El Capitan, Yosemite (USA) – 14 January 2015 – First-ever big wall redpoint at 9a (5.14d), by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson in 19 days. First repeat on 21 November 2016 by Adam Ondra in 8 days, leading all 32-pitches.

Wu Wei (180-metres, 5-pitches) – Picco delle Aquile, Dolomites (ITA) – 16 August 2023 – Second-ever multi-pitch redpoint at 9a (5.14d), by Alessandro Zeni.

8c+ (5.14c):

Lurgorri (250-metres, 6-pitches) – Naranjo de Bulnes (ESP) – 13 August 2006 – First-ever multi-pitch redpoint at 8c+ (5.14c), by brothers Iker Pou[es] and Eneko Pou[es] .

Nirwana (200-metres, 5-pitches) – Sonnwendwand, (AUT) – 9 September 2012 – Second-ever multi-pitch redpoint at 8c+ (5.14c), by Alexander Huber.

8c (5.14b):

Climbers on the roof of Pan Aroma (and Bellavista) 8c (5.14b) on the Cima Ovest in the Dolomites.

Bellavista[it] (500-metres, 10-pitches) – Cima Ovest, Dolomites (ITA) – 18 July 2001 – First-ever big wall redpoint at 8c (5.14b), by Alexander Huber; repeating the route in 2007 (to create Pan Aroma, also 8c), Huber found some key holds were "treated" from a 2005 attempt, and the crux was heavily lined with pegs, which had softened the grade to 8b/8b+.

Pan Aroma[it] (450-metres, 9-pitches) – Cima Ovest, Dolomites (ITA) – 26 July 2007 – Second-ever big wall redpoint at 8c (5.14b), by Alexander Huber; shares the first 5 pitches of Bellavista to the great roof and then follows Bauer's[de] famous aid climbing route.

WoGü[it] (250-metres, 7-pitches) – Rätikon (SUI) – 26 July 2008 – Third-ever multi-pitch redpoint at 8c (5.14b), by a 15-year old Adam Ondra; created by Beat Kammerlander[de] who never fully freed the line.

Orbayu (510-metres, 13-pitches) – Naranjo de Bulnes (ESP) – 2009 – Fourth-ever multi-pitch redpoint at 8c (5.14b), by brothers Iker Pou[es] and Eneko Pou[es] .

8b+ (5.14a):

Neverending Story (450-metres, 11-pitches) – 7th Kirlichspitze, Rätikon (SUI) – 1991 – First multi-pitch at 8b+ (5.14a), by Beat Kammerlander[de].

The Nose (870-metres, 31-pitches) – El Capitan, Yosemite (USA) – 1993 – Second multi-pitch at 5.14a (8b+), by Lynn Hill (partnered by Brooke Sandahl); a major milestone in female rock climbing; in 1994, Hill led it all in under 24 hours;.

After The Nose, the Alpine Trilogy[it] were the next 8b+ (5.14a) graded multi-pitch routes to be fully freed: Des Kaisers neue Kleider[it], (250-metres, 9-pitches) – Fleischbank (AUT) – 1994 – Multi-pitch at 5.14a (8b+), by Stefan Glowacz. The End of Silence[it] (350-metres, 11-pitches) – Berchtesgaden (GER) – 1994 – Multi-pitch at 5.14a (8b+), by Thomas Huber. Silbergeier[de] (185-metres, 6-pitches) – Rätikon (SWZ) – 1993/94 – Multi-pitch at 5.14a (8b+), by Beat Kammerlander[de].

8a+ (5.13c):

New Age (150-metres, 5-pitches) – 7th Kirlichspitze, Rätikon (SUI) – 1989 – First multi-pitch at 8a+ (5.13c), by Beat Kammerlander[de].

8a (5.13b):

Salathé Wall (870-metres, 35-pitches) – El Capitan, Yosemite (USA) – 1988 – First big wall free climb at 8a (5.13b), by Todd Skinner and Paul Piana (alternating free leads). In 1995, Alexander Huber led all 35-pitches to become the first individual to free a big wall route at the grade.

7c+ (5.13a):

Via Acacia (330-metres, 9-pitches) – 5th Kirlichspitze, Rätikon (SUI) – 1988 – First big wall free climb at 7c+ (5.13a), by Martin Scheel[de].

7b+ (5.12c):

Regular Northwest Face (690-meters, 24 pitches) – Half Dome, Yosemite (USA) – 1976 – First big wall free climb at 7b+ (5.12c) by Art Higbee and Jim Erickson. 20 years later, a variation to the crux pitch was found to keep the entire route at 5.12a. Pichenibule (400-meters, 11-pitches) – Barre de l' Escales Verdon (FRA) – 1980 – Early big wall FFA at 7b+ by Patrick Berhault. Hall of Mirrors (650-meters, 16 pitches) – Glacier Point, Yosemite (USA) – Sept 1980 – Early big wall free climb at 7b+ (5.12c) by Chris Cantwell, Scott Burk, Scott Cole. Amarcord (400-metres, 9-pitches) – 7th Kirlichspitze, Rätikon (SUI) – 1984 – Fourth big wall free climb at 7b+ (5.12c), by Martin Scheel[de].

7a+ (5.12a):

Macabre Wall (180-meters, 5-pitches) – Ogden UT (US) – July 1967 – First multi-pitch free climb at 7a+ flashed by Greg Lowe. Air Voyage (550-meters, 13-pitches) – Black Canyon National Park CO (US) – 1978 – First big wall free climb at 7a+ by Leonard Coyne and Ken Simms.

7a (5.11d):

Mittelpfeiller (300-meters, 7-pitches) – HeiligkreuzkofelDolomites – (ITA) – July 6,7 1968 – First-ever multi-pitch/big wall free climb at 7a by Reinhold and Günther Messsner. Via Lacedelli (620-meters, 16-pitches) – Cima Scotoni Dolomites – (ITA) – 1979 – Second big wall FFA at 7a by Kurt Albert.

6c+ (5.11b/c):

Naked Edge (220-metres, 7-pitches) – Eldorado Canyon CO – (USA) – Oct 3, 1971 – First multi-pitch free climb at 5.11b by Jim Erickson and Duncan Ferguson. Astroman (300-metres, 12-pitches) – Washington Column Yosemite (USA) – May 1975 – First big wall free climb at 5.11c by Ron Kauk, John Long, John Bachar (alternating free leads). First repeat in June 1977 by Ron Kauk, leading all 12 pitches (belayed by Werner Braun).

6c (5.11a/b):

Schwager Talseite (60-meters, 3-pitches) – Schrammsteine Saxon Switzerland (DEU) – 1952 – First multi-pitch free climb with obligatory Sax VIIIc by Harry Rost. Athlete's Feat (95-meters, 5-pitches) – Boulder Canyon, Castle Rock (US) – 1964 – Second-ever multi-pitch FFA at 6c by Royal Robbins and Pat Ament.

6b+ (5.10d/11a):

Rebitsch-Spiegl (290-metres, 8-pitches) – Fleischbank Wilder Kaiser – (AUT) – June 20, 1946 – First big wall free climb at 5.10d (UIAA VII) by Mathias Rebitsch, Sepp Speigl.

6a+ (5.10b):

Via Vinatzer (830-metres, 29-pitches) – Marmolada Dolomites – (ITA) – Sept 2,3 1936 – First big wall free climb at 6a+ by Gian Battista Vinatzer and Ettore Castiglioni.

6a (5.10a):

Via Micheluzzi (720-metres, 19-pitches) – Marmolada Dolomites – (ITA) – August 6,7 1929 – First ever big wall climb at UIAA grade VI+ by Luigi Micheluzzi, Roberto Perathoner, Demitrio Christomannos.

5c (5.9):

Via Solleder (1,100-meters, 44-pitches) – Civetta Dolomites – (ITA) – August 7, 1925 – First ever big wall climb at consensus UIAA grade VI by Emil Solleder and Gustl Lettenbauer.

5a (5.7):

Piaz Route (600-meters, 19-pitches) – Totenkirchl Kaiser Mountains – (AUT) – Oct 13 1908 – First-ever big wall climb at UIAA V/V+ by Tita Piaz, F. Schroffeneggar, R. Scheitzold, J. Klammer.

Free-soloed

7c+ (5.13a):

Alex Honnold's 2017 free solo of Freerider (5.13a, 7c+), El Capitan

Freerider (915-meters, 30-pitches) – El Capitan, Yosemite (US) – 3 June 2017 – First-ever big wall free solo at 5.13a (7c+), by Alex Honnold; took 3 hours, 56 minutes.

7b+ (5.12c):

The famous "fish" feature on The Fish Route[de], Marmolada

The Fish Route[de] (850-meters, 37-pitches) – Marmolada, Dolomites (Italy) – April 2007 – First-ever big wall free solo at 7b+ (5.12c), by Hansjorg Auer; took 2 hours, 55 minutes. The Moonlight Buttress (364-meters, 10-pitches) – Zion National Park (USA) – 1 April 2008 – Likely the second-ever big wall free solo at 7b+ (5.12c), by Alex Honnold; took 83 minutes.

7b (5.12b):

Romantic Warrior (305-meters, 9-pitches) – Needles, California (USA) – 2005 – Climbed on sight. First-ever big wall free solo at 7b (5.12b), by Michael Reardon;

7a+ (5.12a):

Brandler-Hasse Direttissima (580-meters, 17-pitches) – Cima Grande, Dolomites (Italy) – 2002 – First-ever big wall free solo at 7a+ (5.12a), by Alexander Huber.

7a (5.11d):

Pilier des Fourmis (120-meters, 4-pitches) – Buoux (FRA) – 1982 – Likely the first-ever multi-pitch free solo at 7a by Patrick Edlinger. L'Ange en Décomposition (100-meters, 3-pitches) – Barre de l'Escalès Verdon (FRA) – 1988 – Early multi-pitch free solo by Alain Robert.

6c+ (5.11b/c):

Naked Edge (210-meters, 7-pitches) – Eldorado Canyon State Park (USA) – 1978 – First-ever multi-pitch free solo at 5.11b by Jim Collins. Nabisco Wall (via Butterballs) (110-meters, 3-pitches) – Yosemite Valley, (USA) – 1979 – First-ever multi-pitch free solo at 5.11c (6c+), by John Bachar. North Face (220-meters, 8-pitches) – The Rostrum Yosemite Valley (USA) – 1985 – Second-ever multi-pitch/big wall free solo at 5.11c by Peter Croft. Astroman (300-meters, 12-pitches) – Washington Column Yosemite Valley, (USA) – 1987 – First-ever Big Wall free solo at 5.11c by Peter Croft.

6a+ (5.10b):

Solda-Conforto (700-meters, 23-pitches) – Marmolada Dolomites – 1953 – First-ever big wall free solo at 6a+ by Cesare Maestri.

6a (5.10a):

Via Cassin (800-meters, 21-pitches) – Piz Badile (SUI) – July 1952 – First-ever Big Wall free solo at 6a, on sight in 4 hours 30 minutes, by Hermann Buhl.

5c (5.9):

Via Solleder (1,100-meters, 44-pitches) – Civetta Dolomites (ITA) – 1952 – First-ever big wall free solo at 5c by Cesare Maestri.

5b (5.8):

Dülferriss (240-meters, 6-pitches) – Fleischbank Kaiser Mountains (AUT) – Sept 3 1913 – First ascent and first-ever multi-pitch free solo at VI- (5.8+) by Hans Dülfer.

5a (5.7):

Via Piaz (280-meters, 7-pitches) – Punta Emma Rosengarten Dolomites (ITA) – 1900 – First ascent and first-ever multi-pitch free solo at V+ (5.7) by Tita Piaz. Piaz Route (600-meters, 19-pitches) – Totenkirchl Kaisergebirge (AUT) – July 22, 1911 – First-ever Big Wall free solo at UIAA V+ in 2 hrs 30 min by Paul Preuss.

4c (5.6):

Via Preuss (220-meters, 6-pitches) – Campanile Basso Brenta (ITA) – July 28, 1911 – First ascent and first-ever multi-pitch free solo at V (5.6-5.7) by Paul Preuss.

See also

  • History of rock climbing
  • Notable ascents and grade milestones in deep-water soloing
  • Hardest routes in traditional climbing
  • Evolution of grade milestones in dry-tooling
  • Evolution of grade milestones in mixed climbing
  • Evolution of grade milestones in ice climbing

Notes

Further reading

  • Italian climbing website, Planet Mountain, has an excellent chronological list of world-first, single-pitch, male and female, redpoints, onsights, free solos, and boulder problems (1914–2012): Oviglia, Maurizio (23 December 2012). . PlanetMountain.com.
  • Czech climbing magazine, eMontana, on men's redpointing milestones from 6a to 9c: Pohorsky, Matej (2018). . eMontana (Czech).
  • Big Wall Climbing Scott, Doug (1974) London, Kay and Ward Ltd. ISBN 0-7182-09672. A comprehensive history of world Big Wall climbs, both free and aid, 1492 to 1973.
  • A History of Free Climbing in America, Ament, Pat (2002) Wilderness Press, Berkeley, CA, ISBN 0-89997-320-5 A good source for world grade milestones that happened in the US.

External links

  • . Climbing-History.org.
  • Maurizio Oviglia (December 21, 2012). . Planet Mountain.
  • . 99boulders. October 26, 2016.
  • "100 Years of Big Wall Free Climbing". Well-researched chronology of world milestones in Gripped magazine from 2015.