Ésforta Arena Hachioji, the event venue

The 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 16th edition, were held in Hachioji, Japan from 11 to 21 August 2019. The championships consisted of lead, speed, bouldering, and combined events. The paraclimbing event was held separately from 16 to 17 July in Briançon, France. The combined event also served as an Olympic qualifying event for the 2020 Summer Olympics.

Medal summary

Medalists

EventGoldSilverBronze
Men's LeadAdam Ondra (CZE)Alexander Megos (GER)Jakob Schubert (AUT)
Men's BoulderingTomoa Narasaki (JPN)Jakob Schubert (AUT)Yannick Flohé (GER)
Men's SpeedLudovico Fossali (ITA)Jan Kriz (CZE)Stanislav Kokorin (RUS)
Men's CombinedTomoa Narasaki (JPN)Jakob Schubert (AUT)Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ)
Women's LeadJanja Garnbret (SLO)Mia Krampl (SLO)Ai Mori (JPN)
Women's BoulderingJanja Garnbret (SLO)Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)Shauna Coxsey (GBR)
Women's SpeedAleksandra Mirosław (POL)Di Niu (CHN)Anouck Jaubert (FRA)
Women's CombinedJanja Garnbret (SLO)Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)Shauna Coxsey (GBR)

Medal table

* Host nation (Japan)

RankNationGoldSilverBronzeTotal
1Slovenia3104
2Japan*2215
3Czech Republic1102
4Italy1001
Poland1001
6Austria0213
7Germany0112
8China0101
9Great Britain0022
10France0011
Kazakhstan0011
Russia0011
Totals (12 entries)88824

Qualification for the 2020 Summer Olympics

The seven best climbers of the combined event automatically qualify for the 2020 Summer Olympics, where sport climbing will make its debut. There are seven spots available per gender, with a maximum of two spots per country.

The qualifiers for the 2020 Summer Olympics from the 2019 World Championships Combined events are:

2020 Summer Olympic qualification
MenWomen
Tomoa Narasaki (JPN) Jakob Schubert (AUT) Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ) Mickaël Mawem (FRA) Alexander Megos (GER) Ludovico Fossali (ITA) Sean McColl (CAN) Kai Harada (JPN)*Janja Garnbret (SLO) Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) Shauna Coxsey (GBR) Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) Petra Klingler (SUI) Brooke Raboutou (USA) Jessica Pilz (AUT) Miho Nonaka (JPN)*

* Japan, as the host nation, were guaranteed two quota places in each event. However, despite four climbers of each gender being in qualification positions in Hachioji, only two athletes of each gender could receive Olympic invitations. Ogata and Nonaka were later named after some debate as to whether the Japanese team could choose their two athletes, or whether the spots must go to the top two qualifying athletes.

Schedule

All times and dates use Japan Standard Time (UTC+9)

QQualificationsSFSemi-finalsFFinals
BBoulderingLLeadSSpeedCCombined
August 201911th Sun12th Mon13th Tue14th Wed15th Thu16th Fri17th Sat18th Sun19th Mon20th Tue21st Wed
MenBBBLLLRest daySSCC
WomenBCC

Bouldering

Women

RankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinal
1Slovenia Janja Garnbret5t5z 5 53t4z 7 63T3z 8 8
2Japan Akiyo Noguchi5t5z 9 92t4z 3 82T2z 4 2
3United Kingdom Shauna Coxsey3t5z 6 90t3z 0 62T2z 6 6
4Ukraine Ievgeniia Kazbekova4t5z 14 141t2z 2 31T2z 3 4
5Japan Miho Nonaka3t4z 4 80t3z 0 51T2z 5 6
6Japan Nanako Kura5t5z 12 101t2z 1 50T1z 0 1

Men

RankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinal
1Japan Tomoa Narasaki4t4z 8 52t4z 2 42T4z 12 20
2Austria Jakob Schubert3t4z 5 61t4z 3 120T3z 0 10
3Germany Yannick Flohé3t5z 5 142t4z 13 160T3z 0 13
4Japan Kokoro Fujii4t4z 5 52t4z 5 60T3z 0 18
5Japan Keita Dohi3t5z 6 82t4z 5 100T2z 0 9
6Czech Republic Adam Ondra5t5z 6 63t4z 11 70T0z 0 0

Lead

Women

RankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinal
Route 1Route 2Points
ScoreRankScoreRank
1Slovenia Janja GarnbretTOP1TOP11.2238+43+
2Slovenia Mia Krampl35+63277.353439+
3Japan Ai Mori39+2TOP11.7334+38+
4South Korea Seo Chae-hyun3483845.663238+
5Japan Akiyo Noguchi34+733+66.483238+
6Austria Jessica Pilz37+331+128.2630+35+
7Slovenia Vita Lukan282131+1221.183530+
8France Julia Chanourdie31+1031+1214.9730+30+

Men

RankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinal
Route 1Route 2Points
ScoreRankScoreRank
1Czech Republic Adam OndraTOP131229.0737+34+
2Germany Alex MegosTOP132+76.0640+33+
3Austria Jakob SchubertTOP1TOP13.5030+33+
4Japan Tomoa NarasakiTOP1TOP13.503830
5Canada Sean McColl31+9TOP15.6137+30
6Italy Stefano Ghisolfi28+18TOP18.0529+29+
7Japan Kai Harada32+8TOP15.2931+28+
8Sweden Hannes Puman29+1132+711.6829+27+

Speed

Women

Aleksandra Miroslaw won the women's speed final against Di Niu. In the small final Anouck Jaubert (7.534) won against YiLing Song (9.768) and secured the third place.

Round of 16Quarter-finalsSemi-finalsFinal
1Aleksandra Mirosław (POL)7.472
16MingWei Ni (CHN)7.819
Aleksandra Mirosław (POL)7.337
Patrycja Chudziak (POL)8.008
8Patrycja Chudziak (POL)8.114
9Elena Remizova (RUS)fall
Aleksandra Mirosław (POL)7.337
YiLing Song (CHN)fall
4Iuliia Kaplina (RUS)8.465
13Aleksandra Kałucka (POL)7.789
Aleksandra Kałucka (POL)7.605
YiLing Song (CHN)7.192
5YiLing Song (CHN)7.436
12Anna Brożek (POL)7.945
Aleksandra Mirosław (POL)7.129
Di Niu (CHN)8.363
2Mariia Krasavina (RUS)7.454
15Andrea Rojas (ECU)8.202
Mariia Krasavina (RUS)7.998
Di Niu (CHN)7.814
7Natalia Kałucka (POL)7.895
10Di Niu (CHN)7.871
Di Niu (CHN)7.525
Anouck Jaubert (FRA)7.535
3Anouck Jaubert (FRA)8.409Small final
14Aurelia Sarisson (FRA)10.504
Anouck Jaubert (FRA)7.663YiLing Song (CHN)9.76
Elizaveta Ivanova (RUS)10.188Anouck Jaubert (FRA)7.53
6Elizaveta Ivanova (RUS)7.747
11PeiYang Tian (CHN)8.080

Men

Ludovico Fossali won the men's speed final against Jan Kriz. In the small final Stanislav Kokorin (5.835) won against Danyil Boldyrev (5.934) and secured the third place.

Round of 16Quarter-finalsSemi-finalsFinal
1Dmitrii Timofeev (RUS)6.150
16Stanislav Kokorin (RUS)5.944
Stanislav Kokorin (RUS)5.808
Kostiantyn Pavlenko (UKR)5.863
8Sergey Rukin (RUS)fall
9Kostiantyn Pavlenko (UKR)6.232
Stanislav Kokorin (RUS)fall
Jan Kriz (CZE)5.986
4Reza Alipour (IRI)6.281
13John Brosler (USA)9.383
Reza Alipour (IRI)7.248
Jan Kriz (CZE)6.219
5Long Cao (CHN)6.441
12Jan Kriz (CZE)6.136
Jan Kriz (CZE)fall
Ludovico Fossali (ITA)6.871
2Vladislav Deulin (RUS)5.612
15QiXin Zhong (CHN)5.580
QiXin Zhong (CHN)FS
Ludovico Fossali (ITA)WC
7Amir Maimuratov (KAZ)fall
10Ludovico Fossali (ITA)5.908
Ludovico Fossali (ITA)WC
Danyil Boldyrev (UKR)FS
3Bassa Mawem (FRA)7.470Small final
14Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ)7.013
Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ)7.613Stanislav Kokorin (RUS)5.83
Danyil Boldyrev (UKR)7.500Danyil Boldyrev (UKR)5.93
6Danyil Boldyrev (UKR)5.940
11ZhiYong Ou (CHN)6.072

WC – Wildcard

FS – False start

Combined

Climbers who participated in all three events of bouldering, lead, and speed would receive a combined ranking, and the top 20 of each gender would automatically qualify for the combined event.

In combined competition, scoring is based on a multiplication formula, with points awarded by calculating the product of the three finishing ranks achieved in each discipline within the combined event. A competitor finishing with a first, a second and a sixth would thus be awarded 1 x 2 x 6 = 12 points, with the lowest scoring competitor winning.

Women

RankNamePointsSpeedBoulderingLead
RankTimeRankScoreRankHolds
1Slovenia Janja Garnbret12.00613.39921T2z 1 21Top
2Japan Akiyo Noguchi21.00710.08212T2z 3 3340+
3United Kingdom Shauna Coxsey42.0029.22531T2z 2 3720
4Poland Aleksandra Mirosław64.0017.75080T0z 0 0810
5Japan Miho Nonaka80.00412.35641T2z 3 4523+
6Japan Ai Mori80.00812.86051T2z 3 72Top
7Japan Futaba Ito120.0058.65560T2z 0 2427
8Switzerland Petra Klingler126.0038.90170T2z 0 3623+

Men

RankNamePointsSpeedBoulderingLead
RankTimeRankScoreRankHolds
1Japan Tomoa Narasaki4.002fall13T3z 4 3230
2Austria Jakob Schubert35.0077.20850T3z 0 61Top
3Kazakhstan Rishat Khaibullin40.0015.91580T1z 0 2522
4Japan Kai Harada54.0036.34860T2z 0 6330
5Japan Meichi Narasaki60.0056.68921T3z 1 4621
6Japan Kokoro Fujii72.0069.43831T3z 2 6429+
7France Mickaël Mawem112.0046.71641T2z 3 4720
8Germany Alexander Megos448.0087.57070T1z 0 180

See also

External links