2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships
2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships
Venue Esforta Arena in Hachioji
Location Japan Hachioji , JapanDate 11–21 August 2019
Competitors 253 athletes from 39 nations
Website
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Ésforta Arena Hachioji, the event venue The 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships , the 16th edition, were held in Hachioji , Japan from 11 to 21 August 2019. The championships consisted of lead , speed , bouldering , and combined events. The paraclimbing event was held separately from 16 to 17 July in Briançon , France. The combined event also served as an Olympic qualifying event for the 2020 Summer Olympics .
Medal summary Medalists Medal table * Host nation (Japan )
Rank Nation Gold Silver Bronze Total 1 Slovenia 3 1 0 4 2 Japan *2 2 1 5 3 Czech Republic 1 1 0 2 4 Italy 1 0 0 1 Poland 1 0 0 1 6 Austria 0 2 1 3 7 Germany 0 1 1 2 8 China 0 1 0 1 9 Great Britain 0 0 2 2 10 France 0 0 1 1 Kazakhstan 0 0 1 1 Russia 0 0 1 1 Totals (12 entries) 8 8 8 24
Qualification for the 2020 Summer Olympics The seven best climbers of the combined event automatically qualify for the 2020 Summer Olympics , where sport climbing will make its debut. There are seven spots available per gender, with a maximum of two spots per country.
The qualifiers for the 2020 Summer Olympics from the 2019 World Championships Combined events are:
* Japan, as the host nation, were guaranteed two quota places in each event. However, despite four climbers of each gender being in qualification positions in Hachioji, only two athletes of each gender could receive Olympic invitations. Ogata and Nonaka were later named after some debate as to whether the Japanese team could choose their two athletes, or whether the spots must go to the top two qualifying athletes.
Schedule All times and dates use Japan Standard Time (UTC+9 )
Q Qualifications SF Semi-finals F Finals
B Bouldering L Lead S Speed C Combined
August 2019 11th Sun 12th Mon 13th Tue 14th Wed 15th Thu 16th Fri 17th Sat 18th Sun 19th Mon 20th Tue 21st Wed Men B B B L L L Rest day S S C C Women B C C
Bouldering Women Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final 1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 5t5z 5 5 3t4z 7 6 3T3z 8 8 2 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 5t5z 9 9 2t4z 3 8 2T2z 4 2 3 United Kingdom Shauna Coxsey 3t5z 6 9 0t3z 0 6 2T2z 6 6 4 Ukraine Ievgeniia Kazbekova 4t5z 14 14 1t2z 2 3 1T2z 3 4 5 Japan Miho Nonaka 3t4z 4 8 0t3z 0 5 1T2z 5 6 6 Japan Nanako Kura5t5z 12 10 1t2z 1 5 0T1z 0 1
Men Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final 1 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 4t4z 8 5 2t4z 2 4 2T4z 12 20 2 Austria Jakob Schubert 3t4z 5 6 1t4z 3 12 0T3z 0 10 3 Germany Yannick Flohé 3t5z 5 14 2t4z 13 16 0T3z 0 13 4 Japan Kokoro Fujii 4t4z 5 5 2t4z 5 6 0T3z 0 18 5 Japan Keita Dohi 3t5z 6 8 2t4z 5 10 0T2z 0 9 6 Czech Republic Adam Ondra 5t5z 6 6 3t4z 11 7 0T0z 0 0
Lead Women Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final Route 1 Route 2 Points Score Rank Score Rank 1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret TOP 1 TOP 1 1.22 38+ 43+ 2 Slovenia Mia Krampl 35+ 6 32 7 7.35 34 39+ 3 Japan Ai Mori 39+ 2 TOP 1 1.73 34+ 38+ 4 South Korea Seo Chae-hyun 34 8 38 4 5.66 32 38+ 5 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 34+ 7 33+ 6 6.48 32 38+ 6 Austria Jessica Pilz 37+ 3 31+ 12 8.26 30+ 35+ 7 Slovenia Vita Lukan28 21 31+ 12 21.18 35 30+ 8 France Julia Chanourdie 31+ 10 31+ 12 14.97 30+ 30+
Men Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final Route 1 Route 2 Points Score Rank Score Rank 1 Czech Republic Adam Ondra TOP 1 31 22 9.07 37+ 34+ 2 Germany Alex Megos TOP 1 32+ 7 6.06 40+ 33+ 3 Austria Jakob Schubert TOP 1 TOP 1 3.50 30+ 33+ 4 Japan Tomoa Narasaki TOP 1 TOP 1 3.50 38 30 5 Canada Sean McColl 31+ 9 TOP 1 5.61 37+ 30 6 Italy Stefano Ghisolfi 28+ 18 TOP 1 8.05 29+ 29+ 7 Japan Kai Harada 32+ 8 TOP 1 5.29 31+ 28+ 8 Sweden Hannes Puman29+ 11 32+ 7 11.68 29+ 27+
Speed Women Aleksandra Miroslaw won the women's speed final against Di Niu. In the small final Anouck Jaubert (7.534) won against YiLing Song (9.768) and secured the third place.
Round of 16 Quarter-finals Semi-finals Final 1 Aleksandra Mirosław (POL)7.472 16 MingWei Ni (CHN) 7.819 Aleksandra Mirosław (POL)7.337 Patrycja Chudziak (POL) 8.008 8 Patrycja Chudziak (POL) 8.114 9 Elena Remizova (RUS) fall Aleksandra Mirosław (POL)7.337 YiLing Song (CHN)fall 4 Iuliia Kaplina (RUS)8.465 13 Aleksandra Kałucka (POL)7.789 Aleksandra Kałucka (POL)7.605 YiLing Song (CHN)7.192 5 YiLing Song (CHN)7.436 12 Anna Brożek (POL) 7.945 Aleksandra Mirosław (POL)7.129 Di Niu (CHN) 8.363 2 Mariia Krasavina (RUS) 7.454 15 Andrea Rojas (ECU) 8.202 Mariia Krasavina (RUS) 7.998 Di Niu (CHN) 7.814 7 Natalia Kałucka (POL)7.895 10 Di Niu (CHN) 7.871 Di Niu (CHN) 7.525 Anouck Jaubert (FRA)7.535 3 Anouck Jaubert (FRA)8.409 Small final 14 Aurelia Sarisson (FRA) 10.504 Anouck Jaubert (FRA)7.663 YiLing Song (CHN)9.76 Elizaveta Ivanova (RUS) 10.188 Anouck Jaubert (FRA)7.53 6 Elizaveta Ivanova (RUS) 7.747 11 PeiYang Tian (CHN) 8.080
Men Ludovico Fossali won the men's speed final against Jan Kriz. In the small final Stanislav Kokorin (5.835) won against Danyil Boldyrev (5.934) and secured the third place.
Round of 16 Quarter-finals Semi-finals Final 1 Dmitrii Timofeev (RUS) 6.150 16 Stanislav Kokorin (RUS)5.944 Stanislav Kokorin (RUS)5.808 Kostiantyn Pavlenko (UKR) 5.863 8 Sergey Rukin (RUS) fall 9 Kostiantyn Pavlenko (UKR) 6.232 Stanislav Kokorin (RUS)fall Jan Kriz (CZE) 5.986 4 Reza Alipour (IRI)6.281 13 John Brosler (USA) 9.383 Reza Alipour (IRI)7.248 Jan Kriz (CZE) 6.219 5 Long Cao (CHN) 6.441 12 Jan Kriz (CZE) 6.136 Jan Kriz (CZE) fall Ludovico Fossali (ITA)6.871 2 Vladislav Deulin (RUS)5.612 15 QiXin Zhong (CHN)5.580 QiXin Zhong (CHN)FS Ludovico Fossali (ITA)WC 7 Amir Maimuratov (KAZ)fall 10 Ludovico Fossali (ITA)5.908 Ludovico Fossali (ITA)WC Danyil Boldyrev (UKR)FS 3 Bassa Mawem (FRA)7.470 Small final 14 Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ)7.013 Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ)7.613 Stanislav Kokorin (RUS)5.83 Danyil Boldyrev (UKR)7.500 Danyil Boldyrev (UKR)5.93 6 Danyil Boldyrev (UKR)5.940 11 ZhiYong Ou (CHN) 6.072
WC – Wildcard
FS – False start
Combined Climbers who participated in all three events of bouldering, lead, and speed would receive a combined ranking, and the top 20 of each gender would automatically qualify for the combined event.
In combined competition, scoring is based on a multiplication formula, with points awarded by calculating the product of the three finishing ranks achieved in each discipline within the combined event. A competitor finishing with a first, a second and a sixth would thus be awarded 1 x 2 x 6 = 12 points, with the lowest scoring competitor winning.
Women Rank Name Points Speed Bouldering Lead Rank Time Rank Score Rank Holds 1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 12.00 6 13.399 2 1T2z 1 2 1 Top 2 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 21.00 7 10.082 1 2T2z 3 3 3 40+ 3 United Kingdom Shauna Coxsey 42.00 2 9.225 3 1T2z 2 3 7 20 4 Poland Aleksandra Mirosław 64.00 1 7.750 8 0T0z 0 0 8 10 5 Japan Miho Nonaka 80.00 4 12.356 4 1T2z 3 4 5 23+ 6 Japan Ai Mori 80.00 8 12.860 5 1T2z 3 7 2 Top 7 Japan Futaba Ito 120.00 5 8.655 6 0T2z 0 2 4 27 8 Switzerland Petra Klingler 126.00 3 8.901 7 0T2z 0 3 6 23+
Men Rank Name Points Speed Bouldering Lead Rank Time Rank Score Rank Holds 1 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 4.00 2 fall 1 3T3z 4 3 2 30 2 Austria Jakob Schubert 35.00 7 7.208 5 0T3z 0 6 1 Top 3 Kazakhstan Rishat Khaibullin 40.00 1 5.915 8 0T1z 0 2 5 22 4 Japan Kai Harada 54.00 3 6.348 6 0T2z 0 6 3 30 5 Japan Meichi Narasaki 60.00 5 6.689 2 1T3z 1 4 6 21 6 Japan Kokoro Fujii 72.00 6 9.438 3 1T3z 2 6 4 29+ 7 France Mickaël Mawem 112.00 4 6.716 4 1T2z 3 4 7 20 8 Germany Alexander Megos 448.00 8 7.570 7 0T1z 0 1 8 0
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